John & Mick's BIG Adventure

More borders

Day 17 – 330 kms (5999 kms total)

We left our Krasnydar “hotel” and got retrospectively charged for parking – 100 roubles – cheek!
We found a bank to get more cash. Put in card, and started selection, but half way through process got blank screen! Pushed assorted buttons to no avail, then finally got a screen and got money.
Then got lost in town, but two chaps in Lada obviously had heard about us and led us to the road out.
We found a fuel stop and filled up – quite luckily as there was nowt at the border and also not for sometime thereafter.
The wind is still blowing old boots.

The border out of Russia was fairly simple and we were processed quite quickly.
We then took a 8km road in nothingness, which turned to dirt track. That stopped at a lake. They are currently building a new bridge over it, but for now we have to wait for a ferry which runs on a chain link.

We crossed over to the Kazakhstan border. Into passport control, at which we were novel and entertaining. The guards wanted to have a go on our bikes. No Chance!
They then sent us round the corner to customs, but not very clearly and we sat for 20 minuets waiting for action. Then I asked and was told to go into the building around the back to do paperwork. Which we did and cost us 500 Roubles. Then across the road to red building where we got stamps and a bit of English chat. Two hours after arrival were sent on our way.
Across border gate we were swamped with women selling money – at a better rate than we later got at the hotel and also bought insurance for $20 each.

We were in Kazakhstan!

The road was pretty awful and from there to Atyrau it varied from OK to abysmal. We saw camels very soon, in singles, trains, and large herds.

We tried to see the Caspian when we were at Zaburune, but avoided the sand roads that led through the village in favour of a gravel road. Alas it soon turned to soft sand. John was in the lead and as his bike slewed from side to side, I slowed to a comfortable halt as he turned into the side bank and his front wheel wedged itself in so it stood upright on its own. Hauling heavy bikes is hard at best of times, but in soft sand, on a narrow track bound by grassy dunes in 35 degree heat, it is not recommended. We were both sweating like pigs when we finally got both bikes turned and slowly crept back to the road, a little the wiser.
Lots of cars flash or beep us as greeting. I’m not sure if its down to Charlie and Ewan or if they’re just glad to see tourists or bikers. Either way, we seem to be famous. Almost like people a phoning ahead and broadcasting our arrival!

We reached Atyrau and asked numerous people for hotels and finally found what is allegedly cheap one, though at 25 quid a night (6000 Kaz Tenge), its the most expensive to date.
Lots of times on route, I got a good GPRS signal, until we reached Atyrau, where it vanished.
Dinner next door was better at 600 Tenge for meat and beers and pudding and coffee, and petrol was 3000 Tenges for both of us.
Exchange rate at hotel is 4.1 wotsits to the rouble, unlike 4.7 at border.

An Italian chap met us at a fuel station and told us to stay in an hotel and not walk street as it’s dangerous outside. I suppose its a city in their eyes, so normal caution required, but having lost an hour in time zones again – its too late to wander.
Nowhere round to camp as land is vast on either side of road and only sand or swamp.
Hotel is clean and comfy though and very friendly people, many try to speak English, unlike in Russia. No police road checks, which is a relief as the roads are slow enough already..

The next installment is here

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